Monday, May 26, 2008

No more junk mail


Ever truly stop to think just how much junk mail is generated and mailed to you on a weekly basis? Multiple that millions of times over and, well to say we're killing a tree in doing so is a severe understatement. By curtailing the sending of junk mail we are ostensibly saving whole forests. With that in mind. . .

Ever wanted to stop receiving credit card applications, unwanted catalogs, magazines and more? Here are a few easy ways for you to stop your junk mail:

The big one
To get your name off prospecting lists through the Direct Mail Association: https://www.dmachoice.org/MPS/proto1_reg.php

No more credit card applications
To remove your name from credit card lists through credit reporting agencies (Equifax, Experian, Innovis and TransUnion): https://www.optoutprescreen.com/opt_form.cgi

No more shopping flyers
Stop Advo/Valassis by calling 888-241-6760.
Call 800-237-6266 to get off ValPak Coupon lists.

Stop junk faxes
You can file a complaint with the Bureau of the Federal Communications Commission by calling 888-225-5322.

Do your part, save a grove of trees and pass this on to your neighbors!

Monday, May 19, 2008

National Wildlife Foundation - Garden For Wildlife


What is a NWF certified Garden For Wildlife?

In essence it means that you are building and maintaining your yard in such a way that it provides the essential elements for healthy and sustainable wildlife habitats, thus earning you the National Wildlife Federation’s Certified Wildlife Habitat program award.

In order to qualify and receive your personalized certificate you will need to provide elements from each of the following areas:

• Food Sources - For example: Native plants, seeds, fruits, nuts, berries, nectar
• Water Sources - For example: Birdbath, pond, water garden, stream
• Places for Cover - For example: Thicket, rockpile, birdhouse
• Places to Raise Young - For example: Dense shrubs, vegetation, nesting box, pond
• Sustainable Gardening - For example: Mulch, compost, rain garden, chemical-free fertilizer

Why should you create a NWF Certified Wildlife Habitat?

It's fun! Watching wildlife in action can be fun and relaxing for everyone. Your habitat may attract beautiful songbirds, butterflies, frogs, and other interesting wildlife for viewing from your very own window.

Curb appeal! Replacing grass lawns with native wildflowers, shrubs, and trees will increase the beauty of your property and provide a nurturing refuge for wildlife.

Bring wildlife home! Restoring habitats where commercial and residential development have degraded natural ecosystems can be your way of giving back to wildlife.

Eco-friendly! Gardening practices that help wildlife, like reducing the use of chemicals, conserving energy and water, and composting also help to improve air, water and soil quality.

Community! Gardening for wildlife can help you share your love of wildlife with your neighbors and help them get involved in creating a home for wildlife.

Once your habitat is certified by NWF, you can order and display an attractive Certified Wildlife Habitat sign to convey your commitment to wildlife conservation and the environment, and help you spread the word to your neighbors.

For more information, please go to http://www.nwf.org/backyard/certify.cfm.

Monday, May 12, 2008

Painting your home the chemical-free way


Traditional household paints contain a vast number of chemicals, including volatile organic compounds (VOCs), which are a large group of carbon-based chemicals that are volatile, meaning that they like to exist as a gas. The type and amount of VOCs in household paint varies with the type and brand of paint, but traditional household paints generally contain many VOCs, including benzene, formaldehyde, and toluene. In fact some of these VOCs have been linked to including eye, nose and throat irritation, nauseau, headaches, and even cancer.

The nature of VOCs volatility means they will “off-gas” from the walls into the air as the paint is applied or as it dries. This alone can cause people living or spending time in freshly painted homes to have exposures to VOCs that are much greater than normal – as much as 1000 times greater. These potentially large exposures (based on the fact that the paint is usually applied to a large area) and resulting smells, headaches, and other potential health effects should be cause enough to encourage everyone to look for lower VOC or chemical-free paints.

There are several types of lower VOC or no VOC paints, each with their own advantages and disadvantages. Of the traditional household paints, latex or water-based paints -- especially the latex paints that are largely free of formaldehyde and other chemicals to prevent mildew and mold (“low biocide”) -- have lower amounts of VOCs as compared to oil-based paints. Similarly, flat finish paints tend to contain fewer VOCs than glossy finish paints, while white or pale paints have less VOCs than brightly colored or dark paints.

Although lower in VOC content, all paints (even those labeled as “no VOC ") generally release some VOCs into the air, with the amount differing by brand. These low and no VOC paints work well, with studies showing that they work as well as or better than a conventional latex paint. However, care should be taken in selecting a "low-VOC" paint, as some may still emit relatively high amounts of certain VOCs and some may perform poorly.

Other paints are entirely free of man-made chemicals and thus are the least polluting and harmful options. “Natural” paints are composed of natural materials, such as linseed, citrus, and soy oils, pine- and balsam-derived turpenes, minerals, plant pigments, lime, and chalk. Although they are made from natural ingredients, “natural” paints may still emit significant amounts of VOCs from ingredients like turpenes or citrus oil, which can also cause eye or lung irritation in some people. “Milk-based” paints, on the other hand, emit no natural or man-made VOCs, but have limited usage (for example, not in kitchens, bathrooms, or other damp areas), take a long time to dry, and require frequent repainting.

Resources (for all environmentally responsible products and services)
http://www.greenhome.com
http://www.greenseal.org

Monday, May 5, 2008

Green Flooring Choices


Your choice of flooring material will affect everyone in your home for decades and have substantial impacts on the environment at large. Floors usually account for more surface area than anything else in a house except the walls, so they have an outsized effect on indoor air quality. Adults, children and pets will walk on them, play on them, sit on them, wear them down and breathe anything they emit for many years.

Since flooring may take up thousands of square feet, large quantities of raw materials, glues, finishes, adhesives and cleaners—with all their associated environmental impacts and energy requirements—are required to make, move, install and maintain it. But you can select flooring materials that will help you maximize the quality of your indoor environment while minimizing damage to the natural environment.

Eight Green Flooring Choices

Bamboo

The world’s largest grass, bamboo grows quickly in a wide variety of soils and, depending on the species, can be harvested in a three- to five-year cycle. Bamboo flooring is generally made by slicing bamboo into strips, boiling it in water, laminating it into board, and kiln-drying the resulting material.

Most bamboo flooring comes from the Asia Pacific region, particularly China and Vietnam, which means energy requirements and air emissions for transporting bamboo flooring to North America are significant.

Adhesives used in bamboo flooring sometimes contain a urea formaldehyde resin, although products that contain minimal or no formaldehyde are available.

Installation is by nailing, stapling or gluing; tongue-and-groove flooring sections can minimize the need for fasteners or adhesives. Ask the installer to conduct as much sawing and sanding as possible outside the home to minimize air quality impacts.

Bamboo flooring is hard (harder than many hardwoods, in fact) and will last for 30 to 50 years. Once removed it will biodegrade in landfills or can be burned for energy.

Stone

Stone is nonrenewable. Sought-after stone types—granite, marble, sandstone, slate, limestone and others—may need to be transported long distances. However, stone’s durability amortizes these costs over a long period of time.

Stone is only minimally processed, but quarrying, cutting, polishing and handling this heavy, hard material requires a great deal of energy. Stone quarrying can also affect the surrounding landscape and water tables, and stone saws can throw irritating dust into the air.

Installation typically requires specialized knowledge and stone-cutting and -grinding tools. Ask the installer to conduct as much cutting and grinding as possible outside the home to minimize air quality impacts.

Stone has no emissions profile beyond potential radon emission. Query suppliers to ensure that radon is not a concern with a particular stone type. Select a low-VOC sealer to finish stone flooring, or select stone flooring that does not require sealing.

Stone flooring must periodically be resealed against stains—as often as every year for high-traffic areas. Sealer will evaporate eventually even from unused areas. Beyond this, simply vacuuming it is enough to maintain its appearance.

Some stone types—particularly marble, sandstone, limestone and slate—are relatively soft and can scratch and absorb stains easily. Granite is harder and more scratch and stain resistant.

Stone flooring can last decades or even centuries, long enough that disposal is a minor issue. Stone can be disposed of safely in bulk, or crushed and reused as aggregate for other building materials, like composite stone tile.

Cork

Cork has a slight smell that most people consider pleasant. It is highly renewable, although at a lower rate than bamboo. Even “virgin” cork is harvested sustainably from several Mediterranean countries. The bark of cork trees can be removed once every 7 to 10 years without harming the tree or its habitat, a process that has been used throughout recorded history. However, energy requirements to transport cork from the Mediterranean are significant.

Some manufacturers claim their cork flooring is hypo-allergenic, but in any case, all-natural cork flooring is preferred over cork-vinyl composites that have a PVC backing. In the past, urea formaldehyde was used to bind cork granules into flooring, but it was phased out in the 1980s. Today, urea melamine, phenol formaldehyde and natural proteins are used as binders instead, greatly reducing VOC problems.

Techniques for installing cork planks or tiles vary from nailing to gluing; take care to choose low-VOC adhesives. Tiles will need to be sealed; a natural wax or low-VOC polyurethane sealer is recommended.

Cork floor keeps its shape well and is naturally mold, moisture and rot resistant. It’s as durable as hardwood flooring, biodegradable and non-toxic (it can even be ground up for compost).

Ceramic and Glass Tile

Ceramic and glass tile have been used as flooring materials for thousands of years. Some recycled-content tile is made from light bulbs, ground glass and auto windshields. Although energy requirements for producing ceramic tile are high, it is durable and produced in many locations from abundant natural clays. Choose tile from a local source to reduce energy used in transporting this heavy material.

Ceramic tile set in cement may be the most acceptable floor in terms of indoor air quality. It’s also more durable than tile set using adhesives. Tiles come either glazed (sealed with a smooth finish; highly moisture and stain resistant) or unglazed (somewhat coarser and more porous). Tile glazes are inert since they are baked onto the tiles at high temperatures, but as usual, adhesives should be chosen with care.

Ceramic tile requires some specialized tools and knowledge to cut and install; however, it can be laid with simple Portland cement-based grout, which does not emit vapors and requires very little maintenance. Ask the installer to avoid cutting and grinding tiles inside your home as much as possible.

Ceramic tile will outlast vinyl flooring if properly installed, and it biodegrades after removal. Tiles can be reused and may also be crushed and recycled as aggregate material for sidewalks, roads—even bathrooms.

Wood

Wood flooring is warm, and recycled woods in particular add warmth to a space because of their years of weathering. Virgin hardwood flooring must be harvested from trees with long growth cycles: red and white oak, maple, and occasionally ash or birch. North American beech is depleted and should be avoided. Growth cycles for softwood flooring, such as pine, are somewhat shorter than for their hardwood cousins. Clear-cutting and overharvesting are concerns, so take care to purchase flooring that is FSC-certified or otherwise sustainably harvested.

“The obvious ones [to avoid] are hardwoods that are rare and endangered, which is what most people put in their homes,” Mangan says. “Brazil cherrywood is popular, and that’s not sustainable.”

That said, any wood may be sustainably raised and harvested. U.K.-based Friends of the Earth rates woods on their endangered status in cases where no FSC alternative is available.

Increasingly, building suppliers carry salvaged wood, which amortizes the energy cost of growing and harvesting wood (though energy is required to disassemble the source building). Wood’s long replacement cycle also distributes its environmental impacts over decades.

Laminate flooring combines several layers of materials (typically a laminate, an “image layer,” a core and a backing) to create an aesthetically pleasing, highly durable surface. Note that while laminate flooring may contain sawdust, wood chips and other re-used wood residues, it may also contain formaldehyde, a known toxin. Look for a FloorScore seal on laminate flooring or check its VOC emissions against one of the other emissions standards in the “Use” section above.

Hardwood floors are excellent for indoor air quality, but take care in selecting a finish. It’s best to buy wood flooring prefinished at the factory, where off-gassing can be handled in a controlled environment.

Wood floors require sealing; try to choose adhesives and sealers that give off few or no VOCs. Wood itself off-gasses only minimally and does not harbor dust mites or mold. Properly finished floors retain only minimal dirt.

Linoleum

Linoleum is experiencing a big comeback as an alternative to vinyl tile. In addition to being more environmentally friendly, linoleum also has practical advantages over vinyl: patterns are dyed all the way through to the backing, ensuring even wear; vinyl tiles have a pattern superimposed on them and show wear more dramatically.

Linoleum is a mixture of linseed oil (from flax plants), pine rosin, wood flour, cork flour, limestone and pigments, which form into granules and are pressed together onto a jute backing. All natural linoleum is manufactured in Europe, adding to energy costs for transporting it to North America. (Make sure you look for “natural linoleum,” as “linoleum” is sometimes used to refer generically to vinyl flooring.)

In use since the mid-1800s, linoleum’s chemistry is well-understood, although some have raised concerns about aldehydes off-gassing from linoleum’s constituent linseed oil. Linoleum’s faint smell may not be to everyone’s taste. However, linseed oil is a natural antimicrobial agent, making linoleum a good choice for kitchens.

Linoleum is not recommended for areas where moisture may seep through the underfloor, such as concrete basements; however, its edges can be heat-welded, eliminating seams. Dry cleaning is considered more effective than wet cleaning, so linoleum flooring reduces waste water.

Rubber

Rubber is generally used for play, outdoor and other areas where non-slip surfaces are needed, such as kitchens. Virgin rubber is manufactured from latex, the sap of rubber trees, which typically grow in tropical areas. Asia provides most of the world’s natural rubber; rubber can also be produced synthetically.

Several varieties of rubber flooring are made from recycled materials, typically rubber tires, meaning that there are abundant raw materials in North America. Conversion to rubber flooring requires energy but transport costs are generally lower than for imports. Recycled rubber flooring is generally less expensive and more durable than virgin flooring.

Rubber’s properties and effects are well understood after more than a century of industrial, commercial and residential use. It is chemically stable, although it does off-gas slightly, giving it a distinctive smell, but emission of toxics is low. Because of its natural tackiness and form-fitting qualities, it can be installed without adhesives, further lessening off-gassing compared with other materials. It is easy to clean, provides good support and is highly durable.

Rubber flooring usually is flammable and some people are allergic to it; although hypo-allergenic products are available, you may be better off using it only outdoors if you have sensitivities.

Carpets & Rugs

Start examining a carpet by looking for the new Carpet and Rug Institute seal of approval, called Green Label Plus. For this certification, the CRI has adopted California’s 01350 standard, which is the most rigorous and tests for emissions of individual VOCs rather than just the overall level of VOCs.

Synthetic carpeting is commonly criticized for its petroleum-based fibers and the off-gassing of VOCs in the home. Recycled carpeting is made primarily from post-consumer plastic soft-drink containers, while recycled carpet padding can be made from old carpet padding and reclaimed carpet fibers. Amazingly, about 30 percent of all foam cushion used for carpet padding in the United States comes from imported waste fibers. Natural carpets and rugs can be made from wool, cotton or even grasses with minimal processing and treatment.

Binders still used to make synthetic carpets and padding may outgas for years after installation, with varying levels of emissions and toxicity.

Wall-to-wall carpets of all kinds require either an adhesive or the use of stretching and carpet tacks. Because of off-gassing concerns, ask the installer to unroll and air out the carpet in a well-ventilated area before installation, and to use only low-emitting adhesives. Ventilate the installation area as well as possible for 48 to 72 hours afterward.

Once installed, carpeting has excellent sound- and thermal-insulating properties. The problem, Mangan says, is that it can’t be kept truly clean.

“Carpet not only is typically made from petroleum products and doesn’t break down ever, but it never gets clean; it just collects dirt and dust and stuff,” he says. “It’s always going to contain whatever’s fallen into it.”

While carpet is the softest flooring material considered here, it is also requires relatively frequent replacement (about every 11 years). Just 4 percent of carpet is recycled, a figure the CRI says will increase to 20 to 25 percent by 2012.


Paul Kretkowski wrote this article, with contributions from consultants Marian Keeler and Kirsten Ritchie, and architect Andrew Mangan for GreenHomeGuide.

Monday, April 28, 2008

Local Harvest - Shop Locally, Think Globally


About LocalHarvest

LocalHarvest is America's #1 organic and local food website that maintains a definitive and reliable "living" public nationwide directory of small farms, farmers markets, and other local food sources. Their search engine helps people find products from family farms and local sources of sustainably grown food, and encourages them to establish direct contact with small farms in their local area.

The richness, variety, and flavor of our communities, food systems, and diets is in jeopardy. The exclusive focus on economic efficiency has brought us low prices and convenience through large supermarkets chains, agribusiness and factory farms, while taking away many other aspects of our food lives, like our personal relation with our food and with the people who produce it. More and more people are realizing this and are actively working to turn the tide and to preserve a food industry based on family-owned, small scale businesses. They are our best guarantee against a world of styrofoam-like long-shelf-life tomatoes and diets dictated from corporate boardrooms.

The Buy Local movement is quickly taking us beyond the promise of environmental responsibility that the organic movement delivered, and awakening the U.S. to the importance of community, variety, humane treatment of farm animals, and social and environmental responsibility in regards to our food economy.

Who Are We?

LocalHarvest was founded in 1998, and is now the number one informational resource for the Buy Local movement and the top place on the Internet where people find information on direct marketing family farms. Through their servers, website and websites of their partners they serve about one and a half million page views per month to the public interested in buying food from family farms.

You Can Help

First and foremost, be sure to type in the zip code where you live or the zip code of any area you will be visiting to find the best local farmers markets, farm stands, food co-ops, or U-Pick farms to purchase your fruits, vegetables, meats, soaps, etc.

You can also participate in LocalHarvest’s building process by encouraging your farmer, market manager, and restauranteur friends to visit localharvest.org and sign themselves up!

Finally, if you are a Sustainable Agriculture or Family Farming group, contact LocalHarvest to discuss how they can partner with you in support of your work.

For more information, be sure to visit http://www.localharvest.org.

(Most of the above info was gathered from the LocalHarvest website)

Monday, April 21, 2008

Xeriscaping in your home garden


What is xeriscaping?

Literally, the word xeriscaping comes from a combination of two other words: "xeri" derived from the Greek word "xeros" for dry; and "scape", meaning a kind of view or scene. While xeriscape translates to mean "dry scene," in practice xeriscaping means simply landscaping with slow-growing, drought tolerant plants to conserve water and reduce yard trimmings.

California's limited supply of water, subject to ever increasing demands, is just one resource saved by xeriscaping, thus resulting in immediate cost savings through lower water bills. Additionally, xeriscaping can reduce the amount of plant trimmings that must be disposed of or otherwise managed, thereby helping your community, and ultimately you, to save resources. A reduction in plant trimmings can reduce the amount of labor needed to maintain a given landscape. Or, put another way, reduced plant maintenance allows more time to be spent on other aspects of landscape maintenance, or on another landscape project.

Xeriscapes generally require less fertilizer and fewer pest control measures than traditional landscapes. Seeing as pesticides and fertilizers can inadvertently harm beneficial organisms as well as impact air and water quality, reducing their use is a good idea. And, of course, using less of these materials saves money.

Now, while indigenous plants are naturally accustomed to local climates and therefore good choices for water and waste efficient landscapes, xeriscaping doesn't mean one is limited to planting California native plants only. For example, one could draw from many available colorful drought tolerant plants native to other "Mediterranean" climates such as Southern Europe, North Africa, Western Asia, South Africa, and Australia. There are many excellent books that provide further information on this subject, as well as a growing number of nurseries that specialize in xeriscape plants.

Remember, xeriscaping:

* Conserves water
* Provides lots of attractive planting options
* Presents minimal pest and disease problems
* Thrives with little fertilization
* Requires low pruning and maintenance
* Saves valuable landfill space

Do your part by designing, installing, or converting landscapes to be low waste, water efficient, easily maintained xeriscapes.

Monday, April 14, 2008

Heating and Cooling Efficiently


As much as half of the energy used in your home goes to heating and cooling. As a result, making smart decisions about your home's heating, ventilating, and air conditioning (HVAC) system can have a big effect on your utility bills — and your comfort. Take these steps to increase the efficiency of your heating and cooling system.

Change your air filter regularly
Check your filter every month, especially during heavy use months (winter and summer). If the filter looks dirty after a month, change it. At a minimum, change the filter every 3 months. A dirty filter will slow down air flow and force the system to work harder to keep you warm or cool — wasting energy. A clean filter will also prevent dust and dirt from building up in the system — leading to expensive maintenance and/or early system failure.

Tune up your HVAC equipment yearly
Just as a tune-up for your car can improve your gas mileage, a yearly tune-up of your heating and cooling system can improve efficiency and comfort.

Install a programmable thermostat
A programmable thermostat is ideal for most of us who are away from our homes during set periods of time throughout the week. Through proper use of pre-programmed settings, a programmable thermostat can save you hundreds of dollars every year in energy costs.

Seal your heating and cooling ducts
Ducts that move air to and from a forced air furnace, central air conditioner, or heat pump are often big energy wasters. Sealing and insulating ducts can improve the efficiency of your heating and cooling system by as much as 20 percent — and sometimes much more.

Focus first on sealing ducts that run through the attic, crawlspace, unheated basement, or garage. Use duct sealant (mastic) or metal-backed (foil) tape to seal the seams and connections of ducts. After sealing the ducts in those spaces, wrap the ducts in insulation to keep them from getting hot in the summer or cold in the winter. Next, seal ducts that you can access in the heated or cooled part of the house.

Overview
If your HVAC equipment is more than ten years old or not keeping your house comfortable, you should have it looked at by a professional HVAC contractor. If it is not performing efficiently or needs upgrading, consider replacing it with an Energy Star unit. Installed correctly, these high-efficiency heating and cooling units can save up to 20 percent on heating and cooling costs. As a precaution, before you invest in a new HVAC system, make sure that you have addressed the big air leaks in your house and the duct system. Sometimes, these are the real sources of problems rather than your HVAC equipment.

Remember that getting the proper size HVAC system and a quality installation is essential to getting the most from your new equipment. When replacing HVAC equipment, bigger doesn't always mean better. If the unit is too large for your home, you will be less comfortable and might actually have higher utility bills. Oversized equipment will operate in short run cycles, not allowing the unit to reach efficient operation and remove humidity from the air — resulting in an uncomfortable home.

Please feel free to contact me for referrals should you wish to have your HVAC system inspected to ensure maximum efficiency and comfort, not to mention reduced energy bills and a reduction in your carbon footprint.

Monday, April 7, 2008

Air quality (or lack thereof) in your home


The air quality in your home and workplace directly affects your health. The average adult breathes approximately 13,000 liters of air each day, along with whatever Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) and other pollutants happen to be in the air. Your immune system works to protect you from harmful toxins your body encounters, but it can only handle so much. If you overload your body with too many harmful substances your immune system cannot keep up and your body suffers. In fact, the EPA has estimated that indoor air pollution kills 11,400 people each year.

Toxins such as VOCs can enter your home or workplace from the paint, flooring, stains, varnishes, plywood, carpeting, insulation and other building products used in their construction. These substances are released into the air through a process called offgassing. The offgassing can continue for years and therefore affect your health long after construction has been completed. Additionally, today's more airtight construction methods work to seal in these substances, rather than allowing fresh air to dilute them.

Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) studies have confirmed that indoor air is often more polluted than outdoor air. The EPA's Total Exposure Assessment Methodology (TEAM) studies found levels of about a dozen common pollutants to be 2 to 5 times higher inside homes than outside, regardless of whether the homes were located in rural or highly industrial areas. Additional TEAM studies indicate that while people are using products containing VOCs, they can expose themselves and others to very high pollutant levels; and elevated concentrations of these compounds can persist in the air long after the activity is completed. During and for several hours immediately after certain activities, such as paint stripping, levels of common organic pollutants may be 1,000 times normal outdoor levels.

Once in your system, VOCs are stored in body fat and can lead to serious health problems over time. Many commonly used compounds are known carcinogens, but their use is not presently regulated. Indoor air quality has become a significant health issue; and should be considered by employers, homebuilders and contractors in every construction project.

Ironically, people often resist using green products saying that they're too expensive and don't work as well as other products. The reality is there are tremendous green products and non-toxic products available now that work amazingly well and are completely affordable. True, green products used to be expensive, but now they're often priced competitively, if not less, than conventional products. As a result, ultimately the question is how can you afford not to buy green? If nothing else, let your long-term health be your guide, and the savings will be beyond compare!

Monday, March 31, 2008

So, just what is Energy Star?


About ENERGY STAR

ENERGY STAR is a joint program of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and the U.S. Department of Energy helping us all save money and protect the environment through energy efficient products and practices.

Results are already adding up. Americans, with the help of ENERGY STAR, saved enough energy in 2007 alone to avoid greenhouse gas emissions equivalent to those from 27 million cars — all while saving $16 billion on their utility bills.

For the Home

Energy efficient choices can save families about a third on their energy bill with similar savings of greenhouse gas emissions, without sacrificing features, style or comfort. ENERGY STAR helps you make the energy efficient choice.

  • If looking for new household products, look for ones that have earned the ENERGY STAR. They meet strict energy efficiency guidelines set by the EPA and US Department of Energy.
  • If looking for a new home, look for one that has earned the ENERGY STAR.
  • If looking to make larger improvements to your home, EPA offers tools and resources to help you plan and undertake projects to reduce your energy bills and improve home comfort.
The best source for Energy Star products:

http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?fuseaction=find_a_product.

Monday, March 24, 2008

Recycling CFLs just got easier


In light of the fact that the recent post I did on the inherent hazardous waste associated with CFLs generated so many phone calls and emails to me, I thought it was time to turn you on to a new program I recently discovered.

Osram Sylvania, Viola Environmental Services and the U.S. Postal Service have grouped together to help recycle CFLs (compact fluorescent light bulbs). Though considered the perfect alternative to incandescent light bulbs thanks to the fact that they save energy and last longer, CFLs do have small amounts of mercury in them, and mercury is a hazardous substance. The problem is figuring out what to do with them when they are no longer good.

Thanks to the above mentioned team effort, the benefits of using CFLs just got significantly greater. Although you have to buy the containers from Sylvania, the price includes shipping and disposal. And all you do is follow the instructions to carefully box them up and drop them off at the post office. With many different sizes available, even up to the 4' long bulbs, it's a can't lose, safe way to approach the world of CFLs, knowing that they are safely disposed of and practically the entire bulb and its components are recycled.
For more information, visit www.sylvania.com/recycle.

Monday, March 17, 2008

How to buy a GREEN home


You have decided to join the fast-growing trend of eco-friendly living and want to purchase a green home. As with so many “green” products currently available, from organic milk to hybrid cars, it’s tough to know if the house you’d like to buy is good for the environment. So how do you determine what makes a house green?

Going Green: Where to Start

The first step is ensuring that the house is built to standard. “Find out if the builder is a member of his or her local home-building association’s green building program,” advises Calli Baker Schmidt, director of environmental communications, National Association of Home Builders (NAHB). NAHB’s Web site (www.nahb.org) is a good resource for this information and features an outline of new home-building green standards, which include: energy, water, and resource efficiency; lot and site development; indoor air quality; global impact; and homeowner education.

Next, contact an EcoBroker®, who can help you find homes that have passed the proper qualifications to be considered green (www.ecobroker.com). An EcoBroker® has undergone specialized training and is knowledgeable in green home standards and can answer your questions. “The EcoBroker® designation allows me to better understand the issues and to convey this understanding to my clients,” asserts Catharine Bramkamp, a certified EcoBroker® with Century 21 Classic Properties, Rohnert Park. An EcoBroker® can also help you find lenders that have cost-saving mortgages for energy-efficient homes.

Want a third opinion? You can get an unbiased evaluation from Build It Green (www.builditgreen.org). This independent, non-profit organization has GreenPoint raters that monitor construction from start to finish for green-certified verification. Another way is to do some research yourself. Online sites such as Home Depot’s eco-friendly product guide (www.homedepot.com/ecooptions) are easy to use and can help you understand the ENERGY STAR label given to appliances.

Buying eco-friendly products is a growing trend with no end in sight. With escalating energy costs, new homes are definitely seeing a surge in building “green”: By the end of 2007, more than half of NAHB’s members had incorporated green practices into the development, design, and construction of new homes.

Ways to Green a Home

• Use Energy Star Appliances
Energy Star products meet strict energy-efficiency guidelines set by the EPA and the Department of Energy and use less energy than conventional products.

• Install Low-VOC Materials
Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) are compounds that vaporize at room temperature and contribute to pollution. Installing low-VOC carpets and natural wood flooring helps reduce these emissions.

• Use OSB Wood or Recycled Wood
Oriented-strand board (OSB) is an engineered wood product that can be used on sheathe roofs and walls, reducing the need to cut down trees.

• Replace Light Bulbs with CFLs
Note: These bulbs contain mercury and must be disposed of properly and require special precautions in the event they break.

• Install Solar Paneling

• Add Energy-Efficiency Windows
Low-emittance glass-coated windows can reduce the heat inside your home during the summer and keep it in during the winter.

• Plant Native Vegetation
Native plants not only are easier to maintain, but also reduce the need to water and fertilize as much compared with non-native plants.

Michelle D. Alderson is a freelance writer. (Reprinted from California Association of Realtors magazine)

Monday, March 10, 2008

Understanding CFL mercury content and disposal



The debate over the eco-friendliness of compact fluorescent lights (CFL’s) has garnered a lot of media attention lately, largely due to the bulbs' mercury content and the fate of all that mercury once it winds up in landfills or if the bulbs get broken inside a home. In actuality, the amount of mercury in CFLs is relatively small, approximately 5 milligrams (mg), which is roughly equivalent to the mercury in two cans of albacore tuna. Older mercury-based thermometers contained about 500 mg.

Nonetheless, because you're still exposed to even a modicum of mercury through the use of CFL’s, there are a number of measures you should exercise in the unfortunate event that one breaks in your home. "Most mercury in CFL’s is in solid and vapor form," says Mark Kohorst, senior manager of environment, health and safety at the National Electrical Manufacturers Association (NEMA). To avoid inhaling mercury vapors if a bulb does break, the EPA advises opening a window as soon as possible and leaving the room for at least 15 minutes before starting to clean. Once you start:

• Never allow children or pregnant women near the spill area.

• Always wear rubber gloves; you should never touch mercury with your bare hands.

• Remove all metal jewelry, which might attract mercury magnetically.

• If the bulb breaks on hard flooring, use a piece of stiff paper to scoop up the broken glass and powder. Avoid using a broom that could stir up dust.

• Damp mop hard surfaces to pick up any remaining dust.

• If the bulb breaks on carpeting, use sticky tape to pick up the powder, dust and smaller pieces of glass. Vacuuming could disturb the dust and pose an inhalation risk.

• Afterwards, shine a flashlight to double check the area for missed spots.

• Seal all the rags, paper and tape, as well as the light bulb remains, in a plastic bag. Double bag it, and dispose at a household hazardous waste site. See www.earth911.org for one in your neighborhood.

• Wash your hands well and leave the room.

• Leave the window open and turn on a fan to air out the room for at least 24 to 48 hours.

• If you've touched mercury or are concerned about your exposure, call the Poison Control Center at 800-222-1222.

Because they contain so little mercury, broken bulbs usually don't need to be cleaned up professionally. Broken or not, all spent CFLs should be taken to household hazardous waste sites (you can find one near your home at www.earth911.org) or recycled. "Unless recycled—which is required by law in some jurisdictions—CFLs are typically either disposed in landfills or fed to municipal waste incinerators," says Kohorst. While landfills may be lined to prevent the release of mercury into groundwater, incinerators can release a bulb's mercury into the atmosphere.

Encourage retailers who sell CFLs to institute take-back and recycling programs similar to those initiated for electronics. Currently, Ikea is the only retailer who both sells CFLs and accepts them for recycling, but NEMA sponsors a recycling program through www.lamprecycle.org. For other CFL recyclers in your area, visit www.earth911.org.

To reduce potential mercury exposure even further, seek out lower-mercury lighting such as Philips ALTO Technology fluorescent bulbs, which contain between 2 and 3 mg of mercury; Philips 16W A-Shape Alto bulb ($10.50; www.blackenergy.com).