Monday, September 29, 2008

Why not make your dishwasher green


As we all know, running your dishwasher consumes energy, water, and perhaps most importantly chemicals in order to perform its intended function. As a result why not consider the myriad ways to make your dishwashing experience a greener one. By adhering to the below mentioned ten tips, your dishwasher can and will be more environmentally friendly than hand washing.

1. Go for the full load
Before running the dishwasher, wait until you have a full load (same rule of thumb for the clothes washer). This will help make the most of the energy, water, and detergent the machine uses.

2. Choose your washer wisely
Choose a dishwasher that is rated for energy and water efficiency. In the U.S., you can start by looking for Energy Star rated appliances, which use 25% less energy than the mandated minimum. Also, know how to read the yellow EnergyGuide sticker you’ll find on all new dishwashers--as well as other appliances.

3. Join the clean plate club
Go for dishwashing liquid and powder that is natural, biodegradable, and free of petroleum and phosphates. Also look for products sold in bulk to save on packaging. Powdered detergents are lighter and so require less energy to ship. If you are running into spotting problems using phosphate-free detergents, try using a natural residue eliminator like Wave Jet.

4. Skip the pre-rinse
Most dishwashers today are powerful enough to get the all the gunk off, so a lot of pre-rinsing by hand is often just a waste of water and time. Plus, if you rinse all of the dirt off, your dog will have nothing to lick while you’re throwing those plates in.

5. Turn down the heat
Most modern dishwashers have booster heaters to heat the water that comes from your home’s water tank. Seems pretty redundant, right? Turning the water tank’s thermostat down to 120 degrees results in additional energy savings without compromising on cleanliness.

6. Air dry
Instead of letting your washer use electric heat or a fan to dry the dishes, just open the door at the end of the washing cycle and let them air dry. Leave the dishes to dry overnight and they’ll be ready for you when you wake up.

7. Pick the right size
Choose the size model that fits your needs. A compact model is more efficient than a large one unless you have to run it several times a day. For a single person, this might be just right.

8. One glass fewer
Using fewer dishes and utensils over the course of the day means doing fewer loads in the dishwasher, saving energy, water, and detergent.

9. Keep those large appliances away from each other
Putting your dishwasher next to your refrigerator will make the fridge have to work harder due to the heat coming off the washer.

10. Wash off-peak
Delay the start of your dishwasher for off-peak utility hours (some units have timers that will start the cycle at a programmed time). Some utilities even offer reduced rates for energy used during this period, and this is likely to become more and more common in the U.S.

Portions of the above are from Yahoo! Green

Monday, September 22, 2008

Scientists promote "Global Cooling" with white roofs and cool pavements


California scientists today announced a formula to calculate how much carbon dioxide (CO2) can be offset by increasing the reflectivity of urban surfaces like rooftops. The news was announced at the California Energy Commission's Fifth Annual Climate Change Research Conference.

"White roofs can cut a building's energy use by 20 percent and save consumers money," says California Energy Commissioner Art Rosenfeld. "The potential energy savings in the U.S. is in excess of $1 billion annually. Additionally, by conserving electricity we are emitting less CO2 from power plants," Rosenfeld added. In a study to be published in the scientific journal Climatic Change, it is estimated that replacing non-reflective, dark roofing materials with white ones on an average house with 1,000 square feet of roof would result in an equivalent CO2 offset of 10 metric tons annually.

Scientists have known for centuries that putting white roofs on homes and buildings is a simple and effective way to reflect the sun's powerful rays. Similarly, cool-colored pavements aid in the reduction of "urban heat islands." When rooftops and pavements are more reflective, global warming can be reduced.

Since 2005, commercial buildings with flat roofs in California have been required to have white roofs. Residential sloped roofs are also becoming more efficient. Beginning in 2009, new residential roofs and retrofit constructions in California will be required to have "cool-colored" roofs which reflect a higher fraction of the sun's rays than current roofing materials of the same color.

Because white roofs act as a geo-engineering technique to cool the earth on a global scale, Akbari, Menon, and Rosenfeld propose an international campaign to organize 100 of the world's largest cities in tropical and temperate zones to develop programs to require white roofs and "cool pavements" when roofs are initially constructed and pavements installed.

"This idea of a 'cool cities' campaign could lead to significant energy savings, improved air quality, reduce the heat island effect in summer, and more importantly, cool the globe," says Hashem Akbari. "This simple and effective idea can organize the world into taking measured steps to mitigate global warming. Our findings will help city leaders and urban planners quantify the amount of CO2 they can offset using white roofs and cool pavements."

Monday, September 15, 2008

Water Efficiency


Water efficiency can be defined as the accomplishment of a function, task, process, or result with the minimal amount of water feasible. It should be noted that there is a difference between water conservation and water efficiency. Water efficiency differs from water conservation in that it focuses on reducing waste. A proposition is that the key for efficiency is reducing waste, not restricting use. It also emphasizes the influence consumers can have in water efficiency by making small behavioral changes to reduce water wastage and by choosing more water efficient products.

According to Waterwise (http://www.waterwise.com), here are some simple ways to be more water efficient at home:

• Turning off the tap while brushing teeth- a running tap can waste over six liters per minute.
• Putting a "hippo" or other displacement device into the toilet cistern.
• Fixing dripping taps - a dripping tap wastes thousands of litres of water a year.
• Using a full load in the dishwasher and washing machine. A person should be sure to buy an Energy Star, water efficient model when thinking of buying a new machine.
• Having a short shower instead of a bath.
• Washing fruits and vegetables in a bowl rather than under a running tap. Using the leftover water to feed houseplants.
• Using a watering can or a hosepipe with a trigger nozzle instead of a sprinkler.
• Using a bucket and sponge when washing the car rather than a running hosepipe.

Monday, September 8, 2008

Energy Efficiency


In its most basic form, energy efficiency is using less energy to provide the same level of energy service. Efficient energy use is achieved primarily by means of a more efficient technology or process rather than by changes in individual behavior. That being said, the following strategies contribute to the goal of becoming more energy efficient:

• Passive design strategies can dramatically affect building energy performance. These measures include building shape and orientation, passive solar design, and the use of natural lighting.
• Develop strategies to provide natural lighting. Studies have shown that it has a positive impact on productivity and well being.
• Install high-efficiency lighting systems with advanced lighting controls. Include motion sensors tied to dimmable lighting controls. Task lighting reduces general overhead light levels.
• Use a properly sized and energy-efficient heat/cooling system in conjunction with a thermally efficient building shell. Maximize light colors for roofing and wall finish materials; install high R-value wall and ceiling insulation; and use minimal glass on east and west exposures.
• Minimize the electric loads from lighting, equipment, and appliances.
• Consider alternative energy sources such as photovoltaics and fuel cells that are now available in new products and applications. Renewable energy sources provide a great symbol of emerging technologies for the future.
• Computer modeling is an extremely useful tool in optimizing design of electrical and mechanical systems and the building shell.

Monday, September 1, 2008

Resource Efficiency


The concept of sustainable building incorporates and integrates a variety of strategies during the design, construction and operation of building projects. And while all aspects of sustainable building are important, perhaps none is more important than resource efficiency which can be accomplished by utilizing materials that meet the following criteria:

Recycled Content: Products with identifiable recycled content, including postindustrial content with a preference for post-consumer content.
Natural, plentiful or renewable: Materials harvested from sustainably managed sources and preferably have an independent certification (e.g., certified wood) and are certified by an independent third party.
Resource efficient manufacturing process: Products manufactured with resource-efficient processes including reducing energy consumption, minimizing waste (recycled, recyclable and or source reduced product packaging), and reducing greenhouse gases.
Locally available: Building materials, components, and systems found locally or regionally saving energy and resources in transportation to the project site.
Salvaged, refurbished, or remanufactured: Includes saving a material from disposal and renovating, repairing, restoring, or generally improving the appearance, performance, quality, functionality, or value of a product.
Reusable or recyclable: Select materials that can be easily dismantled and reused or recycled at the end of their useful life.
Recycled or recyclable product packaging: Products enclosed in recycled content or recyclable packaging.
Durable: Materials that are longer lasting or are comparable to conventional products with long life expectancies.

Monday, August 25, 2008

Certifiably green


As an environmentally conscious homeowner, you know how important it is to buy green. That being said, do you ever wonder just how green the companies and products they represent are? Fortunately, a number of different programs are available that have certified products to give them the all-important, official green stamp of approval. Below are four that should be beneficial to you.

Green Seal
Founded in 1989, Green Seal provides science-based environmental certification standards that are credible, transparent, and essential in an increasingly educated and competitive marketplace. Their industry knowledge and standards help manufacturers, purchasers, and end users alike make responsible choices that positively impact business behavior and improve quality of life. (http://greenseal.org)

Cradle to Cradle
Cradle to Cradle Certification provides a company with a means to tangibly, credibly measure achievement in environmentally-intelligent design and helps customers purchase and specify products that are pursuing a broader definition of quality.
This means using environmentally safe and healthy materials; design for material reutilization, such as recycling or composting; the use of renewable energy and energy efficiency; efficient use of water, and maximum water quality associated with production; and instituting strategies for social responsibility.

If a candidate product achieves the necessary criteria, it is certified as a Silver, Gold or Platinum product or as a Technical/Biological Nutrient (available for homogeneous materials or less complex products), and can be branded as Cradle to Cradle. (http://c2ccertified.com)


Scientific Certification Systems
SCS is a leading third-party provider of certification, auditing and testing services, and standards, founded in 1984, whose goal is to recognize the highest levels of performance in food safety and quality, environmental protection and social responsibility in the private and public sectors, and to stimulate continuous improvement in sustainable development. (http://scscertified.com)


GREENGUARD Environmental Institute
The GREENGUARD Environmental Institute (GEI) is an industry-independent, non-profit organization that oversees the GREENGUARD Certification Program. As an ANSI Authorized Standards Developer, GEI establishes acceptable indoor air standards for indoor products, environments, and buildings. GEI’s mission is to improve public health and quality of life through programs that improve indoor air. A GEI Advisory Board consisting of independent volunteers, who are renowned experts in the areas of indoor air quality, public and environmental health, building design and construction, and public policy, provides guidance and leadership to GEI. (http://www.greenguard.org)

Monday, August 18, 2008

Wells Fargo offers solar home program in California


Wells Fargo Home Mortgage said today it is one of the first mortgage lenders in California to market a new construction solar home program. Wells Fargo will let home builders pass the state's solar rebate directly to buyers at loan closing to use with their down payment or as a permanent interest-rate buy down to lower monthly payments. In the past, builders would simply reduce the price of a house by the amount of the state rebate offered by the California Energy Commission's New Solar Home Partnership and other utility solar rebate programs.

The solar home program is available on conforming and non-conforming loans for single-family, primary residences, including detached homes and condominiums. The amount of the rebate is tied to the size of the solar energy system built into the new home. As part of its million solar roofs initiative, California announced a target that 50 percent of all new houses built in the state over the next decade will be solar homes. The increasing cost of power and environmental concerns are driving consumer demand for environmentally friendly products. Homeowners in California have been known to save up to 60 percent on their utility bills in a new, energy-efficient solar home.

“Our new solar home offering is part of our larger strategy to support business opportunities that help address climate change, increase energy and resource efficiency and spur a transition toward a sustainable energy economy," said Mary Wenzel, Wells Fargo head of Environmental Affairs. "Through our investments and products, we are proud to support an increasing number of customers who want to take advantage of clean, renewable energy and California's goal to have one million solar roofs in the state by 2018."

"Wells Fargo lives by its corporate pledge to support green development and energy-efficient loan products," said Stuart Tyrie, national program manager for Wells Fargo's National Builder Division. "Our solar home program adds to this environmental commitment. California, which is already the nation's top state for solar homes, has mandated builders offer solar as an option by 2011. Wells Fargo is underscoring its ongoing environmental commitment with a loan program that benefits buyers who purchase new homes with solar units."

Source: Wells Fargo Home Mortgage

Monday, August 11, 2008

Good work practices during remodeling

Regardless of what part of the house your remodeling project takes place in, there are good work practices that you can use to help minimize or prevent indoor air and other indoor environmental problems. These practices include the following:

1. Correct the underlying cause of any problem.
For example, if you are repairing a damaged paint surface, look to see what might have caused the damage, e.g., moisture from the inside (such as condensation), or from the outside (as with roof leaks), rubbing or impact of painted surfaces, or structural damage.

2. Assume Paint in Homes Built Before 1978 Contains Lead.
Unless a lead-based paint inspection shows otherwise, you should treat paint in homes built before 1978 as if contains lead. Exposing anyone to lead dust, especially children, is harmful. See further information on lead if this applies to your home.

3. Do Not Disturb Asbestos
If a project requires disturbing areas that contain asbestos, use an asbestos professional or contact your health department for advice before proceeding. For more information about asbestos, including how to protect those in your home during a remodeling project, read EPA's Asbestos in the Home: A Homeowner's Guide

4. Avoid Exposure to Mold or Bacteria
Potential health effects and symptoms associated with mold exposure include allergic reactions, asthma, and other respiratory complaints. The key to mold control is moisture control. It is important to dry damaged areas and items within 24-48 hours to prevent mold growth. If mold is a problem in your home, clean up the mold and get rid of the excess water or moisture. Fix leaky plumbing or other sources of water. Wash mold off hard surfaces with detergent and water, and dry completely. Absorbent materials (such as ceiling tiles and carpet) that become moldy may have to be replaced. More information is available on EPA's mold page - www.epa.gov/mold

5. Avoid Creating Dust (and Contain Dust That Can't Be Avoided)
Many remodeling activities, from demolition to removing wood casings, have the potential to create dust. Use low-dust work practices (for example, mist surfaces with water before sanding or scraping). Cover the area under work with a durable protective sheeting (e.g., a plastic or poly tarp). Use barriers to keep dust contained to immediate work area. (See also ventilation strategies discussed below.)

6. Provide Ventilation
Exhaust ventilation (e.g., a fan blowing out) from the work area will help remove dust and other pollutants AND, by creating a pressure barrier, will help keep pollutants from spreading to other parts of the house. After applying paints or finishes, installing flooring (such as carpeting), or other activities likely to "off-gas" pollutants, continue to provide maximum ventilation to the space. The typical recommendation is to provide maximum ventilation both during installation and for at least 72 hours after installation is completed.

7. Protect Occupants from Exposure to Odors and Pollutants
Keep occupants, especially children, away from the work area. Clean up the work site before they return. (Workers should wear proper protection, keep clean, and avoid taking dust home with them!) Use barriers (e.g., taped plastic sheeting over doors and other openings) and local exhaust ventilation to prevent pollutants from spreading through the home. When possible, allow materials containing VOCs to off-gas outside before bringing them into the home. Likewise, when possible, apply finishes such as paint and sealers to building materials outside, and bring them into the home after they are dry.

8. Use Appropriate Storage and Disposal Practices for Paints, Solvents, Clean-up Materials, and Asbestos-Containing Materials
Seal containers carefully after use. Keep paint containers in storage areas, preferably equipped with exhaust ventilation, but not near heating, ventilation, or air-conditioning equipment rooms. Use an appropriate waste disposal method to dispose of any paints containing lead or mercury. Follow appropriate regulations for disposal of asbestos-containing materials.

9. Follow Manufacturers' Instructions
As a minimum, follow the manufacturers' recommendations regarding proper use, ventilation requirements, and other health and safety guidelines for all products and materials, including paints, sealants, adhesives, and appliances.

Information from the Environmental Protection Agency website (http://www.epa.gov)

Monday, August 4, 2008

Types of Non-Toxic Paints and Finishes

The term "non-toxic" is used here in its broadest sense. With paints and finishes, it's more a matter of degree. Even Zero-VOC formulations contain some small amounts of toxins. Here are three general categories of non-toxic (or low-toxic) paints: Natural Paints, Zero VOC, and Low VOC

Natural Paints and Finishes - These are paints made from natural raw ingredients such as water, plant oils and resins, plant dyes and essential oils; natural minerals such as clay, chalk and talcum; milk casein, natural latex, bees' wax, earth and mineral dyes. Water-based natural paints give off almost no smell. The oil-based natural paints usually have a pleasant fragrance of citrus or essential oils. Allergies and sensitivities to these paints is uncommon. These paints are the safest for your health and for the environment.

The Real Milk Paint Company - non-toxic paint made with milk protein, lime, clay and earth pigments. www.realmilkpaint.com
Aglaia - Natural finishes for many applications, from high quality wall paints to specialty paints for plasters or glazing. (www.aglaiapaint.com)
Livos - Organic paint, stains, oils and waxes made using all natural ingredients. Coatings are linseed oil and citrus oil based, non toxic, low VOC and are designed primarily for wood. (www.livos.us)
Auro - Solvent-free, water-based natural paints and primers, finishes, stains and adhesives. (www.aurousa.com)
EcoDesign's BioShield - Line of natural paints and finishes. (www.bioshieldpaint.com)
Weather-Bos - Line of natural stains, finishes and paints. Blends of natural oils and resins designed to adhere to the wood, forming a monolithic bond. (www.weatherbos.com)
SoyGuard - soy-based exterior stains, water repellants and sealers for wood surfaces. (www.soyguard.com)
Silacote - made from natural mineral compounds, for use on masonry, concrete and wallboard; interior/exterior. (www.silacote.com)
Anna Sova - natural paints from milk casein, titanium dioxide and food-grade ingredients. (www.annasova.com)
Green Planet Paints - natural clay paints for interiors using unique Mayan clay pigments. (www.greenplanetpaints.com)

Zero VOC - Any paint with VOC's in the range of 5 grams/litre or less can be called "Zero VOC", according to the EPA Reference Test Method 24. Some manufacturers may claim "Zero-VOC's", but these paints may still use colorants, biocides and fungicides with some VOC's. Adding a color tint usually brings the VOC level up to 10 grams/liter, which is still quite low.

AFM Safecoat - Flat interior latex; semi-gloss interior enamel. www.afmsafecoat.com (800-239-0321)
ICI Lifemaster 2000 - Flat, Eggshell, semi-gloss interior; primer.(800 984-5444)
Best Paint Company - Zero-VOC Interior paints, primers and specialty products (faux glaze, varnish replacement, etc) and Low-VOC Exterior paints and primers. (www.bestpaintco.com)
ICI Decra-Shield - exterior zero-VOC paints. (800 984-5444)
Kelly-Moore Enviro-Cote - ENVIRO-COTE line of paints are zero-VOC. (916 921-0165)
Devoe Wonder Pure - odor-free interior acrylic latex paints. (www.devoepaint.com)
Ecoshield - Zero-VOC, low odor, ethylene glycol-free interior paints. Primer, flat, low-sheen, and semi-gloss. Manufactured by Dunn-Edwards. (www.dunnedwards.com)
American Pride - Zero-VOC interior latex and acrylic enamel paints. (www.americanpridepaint.com)
Sherwin Williams - new HARMONY line of zero-VOC low-odor latex interior paints. Flat, eggshell, semi-gloss and primer. (www.sherwin.com)
Frazee Paint EnviroKote - line of interior zero-VOC paints: semi-gloss, flat, and primer.
Allied PhotoChemical - supplies zero-VOC, UV-curable paints, inks and coatings to manufacturers. (www.alliedphotochemical.com)
Olympic Paint and Stain - Zero-VOC Olympic Premium interior line.
Yolo Colorhouse - Zero-VOC, low-odor, premium interior paint. (yolocolorhouse.com)
Green Planet Paints - Zero-VOC, clay-based interior paints. (greenplanetpaints.com)
Benjamin Moore Pristine EcoSpec - Zero-VOC, under 1 gram/liter. Flat, eggshell, semi-gloss finishes and a primer.
Homestead Paints - Zero-VOC, flat and low-sheen interior paints. (homesteadhouse.ca)

Low VOC - Low VOC paints, stains and varnishes use water as a carrier instead of petroleum-based solvents. As such, the levels of harmful emissions are lower than solvent-borne surface coatings. These certified coatings also contain no, or very low levels, of heavy metals and formaldehyde. The amount of VOC's varies among different "low-VOC" products, and is listed on the paint can or MSDS. Paints and stains, to meet EPA standards. must not contain VOCs in excess of 200 grams per litre. Varnishes must not contain VOCs in excess of 300 grams per liter. As a general rule, low VOC paints marketed by reputable paint manufacturers usually meet the 50 g/L VOC threshold. Paints with the Green Seal Standard (GS-11) mark are certified lower than 50 g/L (for flat sheen) or 150 g/L (for non-flat sheen). Low VOC paints will still emit an odor until dry. If you are particularly sensitive, make sure the paint you buy contains fewer than 25 grams/liter of VOC's.

Benjamin Moore Aura - Low VOC's, covers most surfaces in a single coat, durable, scrubbable. (www.myaurapaints.com)
Benjamin Moore Saman - water-based wood stains
Cloverdale Horizon - Flat, Eggshell, Semi-Gloss interior enamels
Cloverdale EcoLogic - Low VOC's, under 10 grams/liter. Flat, Eggshell, Semi-Gloss interior.
MAB Paints - Enviro-Pure Interior Latex Zero VOC line
Miller Paint - Acro Solvent Free Interior Acrylic line
Vista Paint - Carefree Earth Coat line
PPG Architectural Finishes - Pittsburgh Paints Pure Performance line

Excerpted from http://www.eartheasy.com

Monday, July 28, 2008

Radiant Heating


Radiant heating systems involve supplying heat directly to the floor or to panels in the wall or ceiling of a house. The systems depend largely on radiant heat transfer: the delivery of heat directly from the hot surface to the people and objects in the room via the radiation of heat, which is also called infrared radiation. Radiant heating is the effect you feel when you can feel the warmth of a hot stovetop element from across the room. When radiant heating is located in the floor, it is often called radiant floor heating or simply floor heating.

Radiant heating has a number of advantages: it is more efficient than baseboard heating and usually more efficient than forced-air heating because no energy is lost through ducts. The lack of moving air can also be advantageous to people with severe allergies. Hydronic (liquid-based) systems use little electricity, a benefit for homes off the power grid or in areas with high electricity prices. The hydronic systems can also be heated with a wide variety of energy sources, including standard gas- or oil-fired boilers, wood-fired boilers, solar water heaters, or some combination of these heat sources.

Despite their name, radiant floor heating systems also depend heavily on convection, the natural circulation of heat within a room, caused by heat rising from the floor. Radiant floor heating systems are significantly different than the radiant panels used in walls and ceilings. For this reason, the following sections discuss radiant floor heat and radiant panels separately.

Radiant Floor Heat
There are three types of radiant floor heat: radiant air floors (air is the heat-carrying medium); electric radiant floors; and hot water (hydronic) radiant floors. All three types can be further subdivided by the type of installation: those that make use of the large thermal mass of a concrete slab floor or lightweight concrete over a wooden subfloor (these are called "wet installations"); and those in which the installer "sandwiches" the radiant floor tubing between two layers of plywood or attaches the tubing under the finished floor or subfloor ("dry installations").

Types of Radiant Floor Heat

Air-Heated Radiant Floors
Because air cannot hold large amounts of heat, radiant air floors are not cost-effective in residential applications, and are seldom installed. Although they can be combined with solar air heating systems, those systems suffer from the obvious drawback of only being available in the daytime, when heating loads are generally lower. Because of the inefficiency of trying to heat a home with a conventional furnace by pumping air through the floors, the benefits of using solar heat during the day are outweighed by the disadvantages of using the conventional system at night. Although some early solar air heating systems used rocks as a heat-storage medium, this approach is not recommended. For further information, see the section on solar air heating systems.

Electric Radiant Floors
Electric radiant floors typically consist of electric cables built into the floor. Systems that feature mats of electrically conductive plastic are also available, and are mounted onto the subfloor below a floor covering such as tile. Because of the relatively high cost of electricity, electric radiant floors are usually only cost-effective if they include a significant thermal mass, such as a thick concrete floor, and your electric utility company offers time-of-use rates. Time-of-use rates allow you to "charge" the concrete floor with heat during off-peak hours (approximately 9 p.m. to 6 a.m.). If the floor's thermal mass is large enough, the heat stored in it will keep the house comfortable for eight to ten hours, without any further electrical input (particularly when daytime temperatures are significantly warmer than nighttime temperatures). This saves a considerable number of energy dollars compared to heating at peak electric rates during the day.

Electric radiant floors may also make sense for additions onto homes for which it would be impractical to extend the heating system into the addition. However, homeowners should examine other options, such as mini-split heat pumps, which operate more efficiently and have the advantage of also providing cooling.

Hydronic Radiant Floors
Hydronic (liquid) systems are the most popular and cost-effective radiant heating systems for heating-dominated climates. Hydronic radiant floor systems pump heated water from a boiler through tubing laid in a pattern underneath the floor. In some systems, the temperature in each room is controlled by regulating the flow of hot water through each tubing loop. This is done by a system of zoning valves or pumps and thermostats. The cost of installing a hydronic radiant floor varies by location and also depends on the size of the home, the type of installation, the floor covering, remoteness of the site, and the cost of labor.

For more information on radiant panels, visit http://www.radiantpanelassociation.org

For radiant flooring resources and installers in and around the Bay Area, please feel free to contact me by phone or email.

Information on radiant heating systems provided by the US Department of Energy (http://www.eere.energy.gov)

Monday, July 21, 2008

Remodeling “Green” can earn you more green when time to sell


It goes without saying that the housing market is in one of the tougher periods experienced in decades, a period not seen since the Great Depression (according to those that draw such comparisons). In fact, experts have predicted that 2008 sales could be down more than 40% from their peak of a few years ago.

The question remains though . . . what if you really need to sell your home right now? What if the need to relocate requires you to sell, or perhaps the desire to buy a bigger home due to an ever-increasing family size? Quite simply, what if you can't afford to wait until the market improves?

The good news is you have the ability to do work on your home that puts you head and shoulders above the other houses for sale in your price range by making smart and quick eco-renovations, i.e. remodeling/renovating/upgrading “green”. In a market such as this one where buyers are looking for added value in their every purchase, making smart green remodeling tweaks invariably makes your home more competitive, not to mention reducing your energy bills, reducing your water waste, improving your indoor air quality, and bettering the fate of the planet.

Here for you now are a handful of ways to make your “green” house stand out from the rest:

Do it yourself projects

• Save Energy—Plant trees to provide necessary shade
• Seal all exterior holes leading in with better caulk
• Repaint using Low-VOC or No-VOC paints
• Replace older, single pane windows with double pane windows
• Add more insulation to walls, ceilings, attic
• Install a water heater timer
• Install a programmable thermostat
• Install a ceiling fan to improve efficiency
• Install energy efficient lighting

Projects requiring a contractor
• Install new green flooring; be it natural fiber carpet, cork, bamboo, sustainable or reclaimed wood
• Install energy recovery ventilators
• Install a tankless water heaters
• Retrofit radiant heat
• Have an energy audit and thermographic inspection
• Install a whole house fan

Obviously there are assorted other green remodeling tips one could take on with the simple concept in mind that any of the above will invariably increase your home’s value and make those living in your home healthier and happier.

Monday, July 14, 2008

Pacific Coast Builders Conference Announces Top Five Green Products


Pacific Coast Builders Conference is home building's premier tradeshow and conference — an annual event bringing together the people who imagine, design and create our neighborhoods and communities of the future. Held every June in San Francisco, PCBC draws over 26,000 residential builders, developers, architects, financiers, product manufacturers, and consultants from the industry.

At the recently completed show, members of the home building industry voted and named the “coolest” homebuilding products in the annual Cool Products contest. Exhibitors entered more than 125 products in three categories - Consumer, Green and Industry products. Five products were chosen for each category by 679 home building professionals who voted online. All companies, products and more information is available at www.pcbc.com/cool.

To follow are the Cool Products from the Green Category for 2008

1. Rinnai Corporation’s Rinnai LS Series Tankless Water Heater - Offers 30% to 50% energy savings over traditional tank-style units and can supply hot water when you need it, for as long as you need it, while contributing to a greener environment.

2. Eagle Roofing Products’ Eagle Solar Roof powered by SolarSave Integrated Solutions - This solar system integrates seamlessly with Eagle concrete roof tile and maintains the aesthetics of the roof, maintains the integrity of the roof system, prevents leaks and protects the home or building.

3. Cree LED Lighting Solutions LR6 Light Bulb - Has a 20-year life span (50,000 hours under normal use) and 85% less energy than a conventional incandescent and less than half that of a comparable fluorescent.

4. Akeena Solar’s Andalay Solar Panels - Uses a Lego-like, snap-in-place process to lie flat on rooftops. The Andalay panels have 70% fewer parts than a conventional system and 20% fewer rooftop penetrations.

5. The new GE Profile SmartDispense Frontload Washer and Dryer - Uses as little as 10 gallons of water and stores and automatically dispenses detergent and fabric softener based on each load’s size, soil level, water hardness and fabric or cycle type.

Monday, July 7, 2008

Green Product Directories

An important tool in the effort to build greener buildings and live greener lives is the selection of products that were made using environmentally friendly processes and are used in environmentally friendly ways.

Green products are available for just about any daily need, and the ways they are green are many and varied: They are energy or water efficient; they use healthy, non-toxic materials; they are made from recycled or renewable sources; they make current products you use more efficient or more durable; and they are recyclable or biodegradable, among many other things.

But among all the truly green products comes the risk of "greenwashing;" that is, products that are advertised as green without truly offering environmental or health benefits. The directories below will help you sort through the claims and find the products that best meet your needs. But please note: Inclusion or exclusion of any product in these directories does not represent endorsement by the U.S. Green Building Council.

ENERGY STAR: Products in more than 50 categories are eligible for the ENERGY STAR. They use less energy, save money, and help protect the environment. ENERGY STAR is a program of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and the U.S. Department of Energy.
http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?fuseaction=find_a_product.

Good To Be Green: Good To Be Green is a directory of green building products, sustainable building materials and green building service providers. Products must: be made out of recycled materials; ensure a low environmental impact during the construction, operation and/or demolition of the building; conserve natural resources like energy, wood and water; and improve air quality.
http://www.goodtobegreen.com

Green2Green: Green2Green.org features comprehensive information regarding green building products, materials and practices. The site offers side-by-side comparisons of products using a variety of environmental, technical and economic criteria.
http://www.green2green.org

Green Building Pages: Green Building Pages is an online sustainable design and decision-making tool for building industry professionals and environmentally and socially responsible consumers.
http://www.greenbuildingpages.com/

The Green Guide: National Geographic's Green Guide offers staff-written reviews of a host of products, ranging from appliances, home furnishings and home improvement products to personal care and pet supplies.
http://www.thegreenguide.com/products

GreenSpec Directory: The online GreenSpec® Directory lists product descriptions for over 2,100 environmentally preferable products. Products are chosen to be listed by BuildingGreen editors. They do not charge for listings or sell ads.
http://www.buildinggreen.com/menus

Low Impact Living: Find environmentally friendly products and services in dozens of categories.
http://www.lowimpactliving.com/products-providers

Oikos: Oikos is a World Wide Web site devoted to serving professionals whose work promotes sustainable design and construction.
http://www.oikos.com

PlugGREEN: PlugGREEN.com allows green businesses to create their own business profile, allowing them to network directly with other green businesses and green-minded consumers. In addition, PlugGREEN.com provides an organized and efficient way for consumers to find local green businesses and products in their area.
http://www.pluggreen.com

Monday, June 30, 2008

Green Retrofit Checklist


Switch to compact fluorescent light bulbs
CFLs can be a huge energy saver and typically have a much longer life than other bulbs. Replace some (or all) of your incandescent bulbs with fluorescents and enjoy reductions in heat production, energy use and electric bills. Changing five of the most frequently used bulbs in your home can save you $100 per year on electric bills.

Program your thermostat
When you are at home, keep the thermostat at 78 F or higher in the summer and 62 F or lower in the winter. Programmable thermostats allow you to program the systems to reduce output when they are not needed, like when no one is home during the day or at night when everyone is sleeping.

Plug air leaks
This simple step can go a long way toward keeping your home at the temperature you desire, saving money on heating and air conditioning bills and more. Common leaks occur around windows, doors and other wall penetrations. Plugging those leaks with weather stripping and caulk can be a simple task for anyone.

Tune up your heating and cooling (HVAC) system
Have a checkup for your HVAC system every two years to make sure it is running efficiently. Be sure to clean the filter monthly during times of peak usage; a dirty filter can significantly reduce the system’s efficiency.

Choose ENERGY STAR® appliances
ENERGY STAR®-qualified products meet a high level of energy efficiency, which can translate into savings on electric bills. So when it’s time to replace that old refrigerator, microwave, clothes washer or other appliance, remember that even if an ENERGY STAR appliance costs more, you could reduce your energy bill by $50 yearly for each appliance. Also, check with your electric utility – some offer incentives for replacing old appliances with more efficient ones.

Reduce water use
Inside, install aerators – available for a few dollars at your local home supply store – to your sink faucets and change to low-flow showerheads. Outside, landscape with native plants and minimize high-maintenance landscaping such as turf grass.

Switch to green power
Green power is an optional utility service for customers who want to help expand the production and distribution of renewable energy technologies. With green power, you do not have to change your electricity provider. Instead, customers just choose to pay a premium on their electricity bills to cover the extra cost of purchasing clean, sustainable energy. The U.S. Energy Department has more information.

Explore solar
Photovoltaics – solar power technology that uses solar cells or solar photovoltaic arrays to convert light from the sun directly into electricity or heat – are increasingly available for residential use. Solar power can be harnessed to create electricity for your home, to heat water, and to improve indoor lighting. The U.S. Department of Energy's Office of Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy can help you find the right solar solutions for you.

Use low-VOC products
Switch to products that don’t give off volatile organic compounds, or VOCs. Low- or no-VOC products greatly improve your indoor air quality and protect your health. Look for low-VOC paints and cleaning products, or you can make your own cleaning products using simple household materials like baking soda, vinegar and borax.

Plant trees to provide shade and wind protection for your house
This simple step can help you save money on heating and air conditioning bills while providing beautiful views around your home.

Use native plantings
Native plants have been growing and evolving in your area for thousands of years and, as a result, have adapted to the local soils and climate. As a result they are more likely to thrive with minimal care, unlike exotic plants. That can mean less need for water, fertilizer and pesticides. The Environmental Protection Agency has additional information on green landscaping techniques.

Copy gently borrowed from the US Green Building Council (gotta spread the Green gospel after all)!

Monday, June 23, 2008

About The Home Energy Saver



The Home Energy Saver is designed to help consumers identify the best ways to save energy in their homes, and find the resources to make the savings happen. The Home Energy Saver was the first Internet-based tool for calculating energy use in residential buildings. The project is sponsored by the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE), as part of the national ENERGY STAR Program for improving energy efficiency in homes, with previous support from the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), the US Department of Housing and Urban Development's PATH program, and the California Energy Commission's Public Interest Energy Research (PIER) program.

The Home Energy Saver quickly computes a home's energy use online based on methods developed at Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory. Users can estimate how much energy and money can be saved and how much emissions can be reduced by implementing energy-efficiency improvements. All end uses (heating, cooling, major appliances, lighting, and miscellaneous uses) are included.

The Home Energy Saver's Energy Advisor calculates energy use and savings opportunities based on a detailed description of the home provided by the user. Users can begin the process by simply entering their zip code, and in turn receive instant initial estimates. By providing more information about the home, the user will receive increasingly customized results along with energy-saving upgrade recommendations.

The results pages provide a list of recommendations--ranked by payback time--tailored to the particular home being evaluated. The user can vary the energy efficiency assumptions in many cases, as well as the retrofit costs and then recalculate the table. The results can be viewed on line, and via a detailed printable report that includes retrofit description and other details as well as links to additional information.

To access the Home Energy Saver and perform your own FREE web based energy audit, go to http://hes.lbl.gov/hes/vh.shtml.

Monday, June 16, 2008

Living with plastics


By now we are all aware that conventional plastics are wreaking havoc on the environment. At the same time life without plastics is somewhat unrealistic these days. By reducing your use of plastic, choosing plastic products carefully, and using them safely — you can reduce the risks that plastics pose to you, your family and the environment. Here now for you is the “Smart Plastics Guide”.

In General
• When you do use plastic, it's best to choose those labeled #1, #2, #4, and #5 and avoid those labeled #3, #6, and #7. Remember, even if you're choosing the best plastics, there are still concerns about chemical leaching associated with long term storage or heat.
• Avoid using plastic containers in the microwave. Better to use glass or ceramic containers free of metallic paint.
• Beware of cling wraps, especially for microwave use.
• Avoid plastic bottled water whenever possible.
• If you do use plastic water bottles, take precautions. If you use a polycarbonate water bottle, reduce the possibility of leaching BPA by avoiding warm or hot liquids, and discard old or scratched bottles. Water bottles from #1 or #2 plastics are recommended for single use only. If you do reuse, for all types of plastic, reduce the possibility of bacterial contamination by thoroughly washing daily. However, avoid using harsh detergents that can break down the plastic and increase chemical leaching.

With Kids
• Parents and pregnant women should be aware to use precautionary measures with plastics. Plastic baby bottles are of particular concern. The Children's Health Environmental Coalition (CHEC) advises avoiding polycarbonate bottles (#7) bottles and instead selecting those made of tempered glass or polyethylene and polypropylene (#1, #2, or #5).
• CHEC also recommends using bottle nipples made of clear silicone to lower the chances of bacteria forming and hiding on its surface. Silicone is also more heat resistant.
• For toys, CHEC recommends avoidance of plastic toys, which are often made of PVC and can leach harmful chemicals when chewed on. They recommend cloth and wooden toys or taking the time to research which toy manufacturers have eliminated PVC from their products.

Reduce, Reuse, Recycle:
• Reduce first: Avoid single-use items such as disposable bottles, plates, and cutlery. Prioritize PLA if you must use disposable. To cut down on the total amount of plastic used, prioritize packaged goods in the largest container available, rather than several smaller ones, (for example, a gallon container of water rather than sixteen 8 oz. bottles). Carry a refillable bottle or mug for beverages on the go, and bring reusable cloth bags to stores.
• Reuse: If you regularly buy products that are only available in plastic packaging, buy those you can reuse. You can use them for other purposes or refill them using the precautions already mentioned.
• Recycle: 75% of plastics end up in a landfill or are incinerated after a single use. Plastic recycling has lightened some of the “throw away” burden, but US plastic-bottle recycling rate is still just 25%. After Reduce and Reuse, Recycling is the next best thing. Even if we managed to raise the amount we do recycle, it isn't the ideal solution because it is recycled into lower-quality plastic with limited applications, such as plastic composite lumber, much of which currently ends its life only after its 2nd use. For recycling to work full cycle, purchase items made from or packaged in post-consumer content recycled plastic. If you have a curbside program that doesn't accept certain plastics, consult www.earth911.org to find an alternative drop-off site near you.

For a thorough and informative, if not a bit ominous, read on plastics check out http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plastic

Monday, June 9, 2008

Green home designs for FREE


In an effort to make green home design accessible to all, FreeGreen provides a selection of green home designs for free, with a range of styles from traditional to modern. While the basic designs are free, homeowners can take the process even further and customize their designs for an additional (and very reasonable) fee. The cost of the design process, and of the free home plans, is kept to a minimum through partnerships between FreeGreen and green building product manufacturers.

As homeowners consult with FreeGreen for customized designs, they are introduced to healthy, energy-saving, sustainable products that are sponsors of FreeGreen's eco-enterprise. It is a win-win-win collaboration that introduces people to green building principles and products and allows consumers on any budget to own a custom designed, green home.

Ultimately, FreeGreen is about providing people with the options and knowledge to make informed decisions. Green building products are widely available but sorting through the myriad choices, or even knowing where to look, is a daunting task for most new homeowners. Freegreen is solving this problem by offering excellent green building consult at little cost to the consumer. According to the founders, “The goal at FreeGreen is not to produce the greenest possible home but rather to provide a variety of different home plans that allow people to create homes that fit their lifestyles in a responsible and equitable manner.”

For more information and to see the FREE plans available, go to http://freegreen.com

Monday, June 2, 2008

Deconstruction vs Demolition


What is deconstruction?

In the context of physical construction, deconstruction is the selective dismantlement of building components, specifically for re-use, recycling, and waste management. It differs from demolition where a site is cleared of its building by the most expedient means. Deconstruction has also been defined as “construction in reverse”. The process of dismantling structures is an ancient activity that has been revived by the growing field of sustainable, green building. Buildings, like everything, have a life-cycle. Deconstruction focuses on giving the materials within a building a new life once the building as a whole can no longer continue.

When buildings reach the end of their useful life, they are typically demolished and hauled to landfills. Implosions or ‘wrecking-ball’ style demolition is relatively inexpensive and offers a quick method of clearing sites for new structures. On the other hand, this method creates substantial amounts of waste. Components within old buildings may still be valuable, sometimes more valuable than at the time the building was constructed. Deconstruction is a method of harvesting what is commonly considered “waste” and reclaiming it into useful building material.

Contribution to sustainability

Deconstruction has strong ties to environmental sustainability. In addition to giving materials a new life cycle, deconstructing buildings helps to lower the need for virgin resources. This in turn leads to energy and emissions reductions from the refining and manufacture of new materials. As deconstruction is often done on a local level, many times on-site, energy and emissions are also saved during the transportation of materials. Deconstruction can potentially support communities by providing local jobs and renovated structures. Deconstruction employs 3-6 workers for every one employed in a comparable demolition job. In addition, solid waste from conventional demolition is diverted from landfills. This is a major benefit because construction and demolition (C&D) waste accounts for approximately 20% of the solid waste stream.

Economic potential

Deconstruction’s economic viability varies from project to project. The amount of time and cost of labor are the main drawbacks. Harvesting materials from a structure can take weeks, where as demolition may be completed in roughly a day. However, some of the costs, if not all, can be recovered. Reusing the materials in a new on-site structure, selling reclaimed materials, donating materials for income tax write-offs, and avoiding landfill “tipping fees” are all ways in which the cost of deconstruction can be made comparable to demolition.

Designing for deconstruction (DfD)

An upstream approach to deconstruction can be implemented into buildings during their design process. This is a current trend in sustainable architecture. Often, simple construction methods combined with high-grade, durable materials work best for DfD structures. Separating layers of a building’s infrastructure and making them visible can significantly simplify its deconstruction. Making components within systems separable also assists in being able to dismantle materials quickly and efficiently. This can be achieved by using mechanical fasteners such as bolts to connect parts. Allowing physical access to the fasteners is another needed aspect of this design. Also, it is important to use standardized materials and assemble them in a consistent manner throughout the project.

Some conventional construction methods and materials are difficult or impossible to deconstruct and should be avoided. The use of nails and adhesives significantly slow down the deconstruction process and have a tendency to ruin good materials. Avoid hazardous materials altogether as they detrimental to the natural environment and are non-reusable. Using mixed material grades make the process of identifying pieces for resale difficult. Try to use similar grade woods and metals and identical length members throughout the structure.

Deconstruction is important for more than just the end of a building’s life-cycle. Buildings that have been designed with deconstruction in mind are often easier to maintain and adapt to new uses. Saving the shell of a building or adapting the interior space to meet new needs is the ultimate choice in terms of environmental sustainability. Flattening a salvageable building and building a similar one in its place is generally inadvisable.

Courtesy of Wikipedia

Monday, May 26, 2008

No more junk mail


Ever truly stop to think just how much junk mail is generated and mailed to you on a weekly basis? Multiple that millions of times over and, well to say we're killing a tree in doing so is a severe understatement. By curtailing the sending of junk mail we are ostensibly saving whole forests. With that in mind. . .

Ever wanted to stop receiving credit card applications, unwanted catalogs, magazines and more? Here are a few easy ways for you to stop your junk mail:

The big one
To get your name off prospecting lists through the Direct Mail Association: https://www.dmachoice.org/MPS/proto1_reg.php

No more credit card applications
To remove your name from credit card lists through credit reporting agencies (Equifax, Experian, Innovis and TransUnion): https://www.optoutprescreen.com/opt_form.cgi

No more shopping flyers
Stop Advo/Valassis by calling 888-241-6760.
Call 800-237-6266 to get off ValPak Coupon lists.

Stop junk faxes
You can file a complaint with the Bureau of the Federal Communications Commission by calling 888-225-5322.

Do your part, save a grove of trees and pass this on to your neighbors!

Monday, May 19, 2008

National Wildlife Foundation - Garden For Wildlife


What is a NWF certified Garden For Wildlife?

In essence it means that you are building and maintaining your yard in such a way that it provides the essential elements for healthy and sustainable wildlife habitats, thus earning you the National Wildlife Federation’s Certified Wildlife Habitat program award.

In order to qualify and receive your personalized certificate you will need to provide elements from each of the following areas:

• Food Sources - For example: Native plants, seeds, fruits, nuts, berries, nectar
• Water Sources - For example: Birdbath, pond, water garden, stream
• Places for Cover - For example: Thicket, rockpile, birdhouse
• Places to Raise Young - For example: Dense shrubs, vegetation, nesting box, pond
• Sustainable Gardening - For example: Mulch, compost, rain garden, chemical-free fertilizer

Why should you create a NWF Certified Wildlife Habitat?

It's fun! Watching wildlife in action can be fun and relaxing for everyone. Your habitat may attract beautiful songbirds, butterflies, frogs, and other interesting wildlife for viewing from your very own window.

Curb appeal! Replacing grass lawns with native wildflowers, shrubs, and trees will increase the beauty of your property and provide a nurturing refuge for wildlife.

Bring wildlife home! Restoring habitats where commercial and residential development have degraded natural ecosystems can be your way of giving back to wildlife.

Eco-friendly! Gardening practices that help wildlife, like reducing the use of chemicals, conserving energy and water, and composting also help to improve air, water and soil quality.

Community! Gardening for wildlife can help you share your love of wildlife with your neighbors and help them get involved in creating a home for wildlife.

Once your habitat is certified by NWF, you can order and display an attractive Certified Wildlife Habitat sign to convey your commitment to wildlife conservation and the environment, and help you spread the word to your neighbors.

For more information, please go to http://www.nwf.org/backyard/certify.cfm.

Monday, May 12, 2008

Painting your home the chemical-free way


Traditional household paints contain a vast number of chemicals, including volatile organic compounds (VOCs), which are a large group of carbon-based chemicals that are volatile, meaning that they like to exist as a gas. The type and amount of VOCs in household paint varies with the type and brand of paint, but traditional household paints generally contain many VOCs, including benzene, formaldehyde, and toluene. In fact some of these VOCs have been linked to including eye, nose and throat irritation, nauseau, headaches, and even cancer.

The nature of VOCs volatility means they will “off-gas” from the walls into the air as the paint is applied or as it dries. This alone can cause people living or spending time in freshly painted homes to have exposures to VOCs that are much greater than normal – as much as 1000 times greater. These potentially large exposures (based on the fact that the paint is usually applied to a large area) and resulting smells, headaches, and other potential health effects should be cause enough to encourage everyone to look for lower VOC or chemical-free paints.

There are several types of lower VOC or no VOC paints, each with their own advantages and disadvantages. Of the traditional household paints, latex or water-based paints -- especially the latex paints that are largely free of formaldehyde and other chemicals to prevent mildew and mold (“low biocide”) -- have lower amounts of VOCs as compared to oil-based paints. Similarly, flat finish paints tend to contain fewer VOCs than glossy finish paints, while white or pale paints have less VOCs than brightly colored or dark paints.

Although lower in VOC content, all paints (even those labeled as “no VOC ") generally release some VOCs into the air, with the amount differing by brand. These low and no VOC paints work well, with studies showing that they work as well as or better than a conventional latex paint. However, care should be taken in selecting a "low-VOC" paint, as some may still emit relatively high amounts of certain VOCs and some may perform poorly.

Other paints are entirely free of man-made chemicals and thus are the least polluting and harmful options. “Natural” paints are composed of natural materials, such as linseed, citrus, and soy oils, pine- and balsam-derived turpenes, minerals, plant pigments, lime, and chalk. Although they are made from natural ingredients, “natural” paints may still emit significant amounts of VOCs from ingredients like turpenes or citrus oil, which can also cause eye or lung irritation in some people. “Milk-based” paints, on the other hand, emit no natural or man-made VOCs, but have limited usage (for example, not in kitchens, bathrooms, or other damp areas), take a long time to dry, and require frequent repainting.

Resources (for all environmentally responsible products and services)
http://www.greenhome.com
http://www.greenseal.org

Monday, May 5, 2008

Green Flooring Choices


Your choice of flooring material will affect everyone in your home for decades and have substantial impacts on the environment at large. Floors usually account for more surface area than anything else in a house except the walls, so they have an outsized effect on indoor air quality. Adults, children and pets will walk on them, play on them, sit on them, wear them down and breathe anything they emit for many years.

Since flooring may take up thousands of square feet, large quantities of raw materials, glues, finishes, adhesives and cleaners—with all their associated environmental impacts and energy requirements—are required to make, move, install and maintain it. But you can select flooring materials that will help you maximize the quality of your indoor environment while minimizing damage to the natural environment.

Eight Green Flooring Choices

Bamboo

The world’s largest grass, bamboo grows quickly in a wide variety of soils and, depending on the species, can be harvested in a three- to five-year cycle. Bamboo flooring is generally made by slicing bamboo into strips, boiling it in water, laminating it into board, and kiln-drying the resulting material.

Most bamboo flooring comes from the Asia Pacific region, particularly China and Vietnam, which means energy requirements and air emissions for transporting bamboo flooring to North America are significant.

Adhesives used in bamboo flooring sometimes contain a urea formaldehyde resin, although products that contain minimal or no formaldehyde are available.

Installation is by nailing, stapling or gluing; tongue-and-groove flooring sections can minimize the need for fasteners or adhesives. Ask the installer to conduct as much sawing and sanding as possible outside the home to minimize air quality impacts.

Bamboo flooring is hard (harder than many hardwoods, in fact) and will last for 30 to 50 years. Once removed it will biodegrade in landfills or can be burned for energy.

Stone

Stone is nonrenewable. Sought-after stone types—granite, marble, sandstone, slate, limestone and others—may need to be transported long distances. However, stone’s durability amortizes these costs over a long period of time.

Stone is only minimally processed, but quarrying, cutting, polishing and handling this heavy, hard material requires a great deal of energy. Stone quarrying can also affect the surrounding landscape and water tables, and stone saws can throw irritating dust into the air.

Installation typically requires specialized knowledge and stone-cutting and -grinding tools. Ask the installer to conduct as much cutting and grinding as possible outside the home to minimize air quality impacts.

Stone has no emissions profile beyond potential radon emission. Query suppliers to ensure that radon is not a concern with a particular stone type. Select a low-VOC sealer to finish stone flooring, or select stone flooring that does not require sealing.

Stone flooring must periodically be resealed against stains—as often as every year for high-traffic areas. Sealer will evaporate eventually even from unused areas. Beyond this, simply vacuuming it is enough to maintain its appearance.

Some stone types—particularly marble, sandstone, limestone and slate—are relatively soft and can scratch and absorb stains easily. Granite is harder and more scratch and stain resistant.

Stone flooring can last decades or even centuries, long enough that disposal is a minor issue. Stone can be disposed of safely in bulk, or crushed and reused as aggregate for other building materials, like composite stone tile.

Cork

Cork has a slight smell that most people consider pleasant. It is highly renewable, although at a lower rate than bamboo. Even “virgin” cork is harvested sustainably from several Mediterranean countries. The bark of cork trees can be removed once every 7 to 10 years without harming the tree or its habitat, a process that has been used throughout recorded history. However, energy requirements to transport cork from the Mediterranean are significant.

Some manufacturers claim their cork flooring is hypo-allergenic, but in any case, all-natural cork flooring is preferred over cork-vinyl composites that have a PVC backing. In the past, urea formaldehyde was used to bind cork granules into flooring, but it was phased out in the 1980s. Today, urea melamine, phenol formaldehyde and natural proteins are used as binders instead, greatly reducing VOC problems.

Techniques for installing cork planks or tiles vary from nailing to gluing; take care to choose low-VOC adhesives. Tiles will need to be sealed; a natural wax or low-VOC polyurethane sealer is recommended.

Cork floor keeps its shape well and is naturally mold, moisture and rot resistant. It’s as durable as hardwood flooring, biodegradable and non-toxic (it can even be ground up for compost).

Ceramic and Glass Tile

Ceramic and glass tile have been used as flooring materials for thousands of years. Some recycled-content tile is made from light bulbs, ground glass and auto windshields. Although energy requirements for producing ceramic tile are high, it is durable and produced in many locations from abundant natural clays. Choose tile from a local source to reduce energy used in transporting this heavy material.

Ceramic tile set in cement may be the most acceptable floor in terms of indoor air quality. It’s also more durable than tile set using adhesives. Tiles come either glazed (sealed with a smooth finish; highly moisture and stain resistant) or unglazed (somewhat coarser and more porous). Tile glazes are inert since they are baked onto the tiles at high temperatures, but as usual, adhesives should be chosen with care.

Ceramic tile requires some specialized tools and knowledge to cut and install; however, it can be laid with simple Portland cement-based grout, which does not emit vapors and requires very little maintenance. Ask the installer to avoid cutting and grinding tiles inside your home as much as possible.

Ceramic tile will outlast vinyl flooring if properly installed, and it biodegrades after removal. Tiles can be reused and may also be crushed and recycled as aggregate material for sidewalks, roads—even bathrooms.

Wood

Wood flooring is warm, and recycled woods in particular add warmth to a space because of their years of weathering. Virgin hardwood flooring must be harvested from trees with long growth cycles: red and white oak, maple, and occasionally ash or birch. North American beech is depleted and should be avoided. Growth cycles for softwood flooring, such as pine, are somewhat shorter than for their hardwood cousins. Clear-cutting and overharvesting are concerns, so take care to purchase flooring that is FSC-certified or otherwise sustainably harvested.

“The obvious ones [to avoid] are hardwoods that are rare and endangered, which is what most people put in their homes,” Mangan says. “Brazil cherrywood is popular, and that’s not sustainable.”

That said, any wood may be sustainably raised and harvested. U.K.-based Friends of the Earth rates woods on their endangered status in cases where no FSC alternative is available.

Increasingly, building suppliers carry salvaged wood, which amortizes the energy cost of growing and harvesting wood (though energy is required to disassemble the source building). Wood’s long replacement cycle also distributes its environmental impacts over decades.

Laminate flooring combines several layers of materials (typically a laminate, an “image layer,” a core and a backing) to create an aesthetically pleasing, highly durable surface. Note that while laminate flooring may contain sawdust, wood chips and other re-used wood residues, it may also contain formaldehyde, a known toxin. Look for a FloorScore seal on laminate flooring or check its VOC emissions against one of the other emissions standards in the “Use” section above.

Hardwood floors are excellent for indoor air quality, but take care in selecting a finish. It’s best to buy wood flooring prefinished at the factory, where off-gassing can be handled in a controlled environment.

Wood floors require sealing; try to choose adhesives and sealers that give off few or no VOCs. Wood itself off-gasses only minimally and does not harbor dust mites or mold. Properly finished floors retain only minimal dirt.

Linoleum

Linoleum is experiencing a big comeback as an alternative to vinyl tile. In addition to being more environmentally friendly, linoleum also has practical advantages over vinyl: patterns are dyed all the way through to the backing, ensuring even wear; vinyl tiles have a pattern superimposed on them and show wear more dramatically.

Linoleum is a mixture of linseed oil (from flax plants), pine rosin, wood flour, cork flour, limestone and pigments, which form into granules and are pressed together onto a jute backing. All natural linoleum is manufactured in Europe, adding to energy costs for transporting it to North America. (Make sure you look for “natural linoleum,” as “linoleum” is sometimes used to refer generically to vinyl flooring.)

In use since the mid-1800s, linoleum’s chemistry is well-understood, although some have raised concerns about aldehydes off-gassing from linoleum’s constituent linseed oil. Linoleum’s faint smell may not be to everyone’s taste. However, linseed oil is a natural antimicrobial agent, making linoleum a good choice for kitchens.

Linoleum is not recommended for areas where moisture may seep through the underfloor, such as concrete basements; however, its edges can be heat-welded, eliminating seams. Dry cleaning is considered more effective than wet cleaning, so linoleum flooring reduces waste water.

Rubber

Rubber is generally used for play, outdoor and other areas where non-slip surfaces are needed, such as kitchens. Virgin rubber is manufactured from latex, the sap of rubber trees, which typically grow in tropical areas. Asia provides most of the world’s natural rubber; rubber can also be produced synthetically.

Several varieties of rubber flooring are made from recycled materials, typically rubber tires, meaning that there are abundant raw materials in North America. Conversion to rubber flooring requires energy but transport costs are generally lower than for imports. Recycled rubber flooring is generally less expensive and more durable than virgin flooring.

Rubber’s properties and effects are well understood after more than a century of industrial, commercial and residential use. It is chemically stable, although it does off-gas slightly, giving it a distinctive smell, but emission of toxics is low. Because of its natural tackiness and form-fitting qualities, it can be installed without adhesives, further lessening off-gassing compared with other materials. It is easy to clean, provides good support and is highly durable.

Rubber flooring usually is flammable and some people are allergic to it; although hypo-allergenic products are available, you may be better off using it only outdoors if you have sensitivities.

Carpets & Rugs

Start examining a carpet by looking for the new Carpet and Rug Institute seal of approval, called Green Label Plus. For this certification, the CRI has adopted California’s 01350 standard, which is the most rigorous and tests for emissions of individual VOCs rather than just the overall level of VOCs.

Synthetic carpeting is commonly criticized for its petroleum-based fibers and the off-gassing of VOCs in the home. Recycled carpeting is made primarily from post-consumer plastic soft-drink containers, while recycled carpet padding can be made from old carpet padding and reclaimed carpet fibers. Amazingly, about 30 percent of all foam cushion used for carpet padding in the United States comes from imported waste fibers. Natural carpets and rugs can be made from wool, cotton or even grasses with minimal processing and treatment.

Binders still used to make synthetic carpets and padding may outgas for years after installation, with varying levels of emissions and toxicity.

Wall-to-wall carpets of all kinds require either an adhesive or the use of stretching and carpet tacks. Because of off-gassing concerns, ask the installer to unroll and air out the carpet in a well-ventilated area before installation, and to use only low-emitting adhesives. Ventilate the installation area as well as possible for 48 to 72 hours afterward.

Once installed, carpeting has excellent sound- and thermal-insulating properties. The problem, Mangan says, is that it can’t be kept truly clean.

“Carpet not only is typically made from petroleum products and doesn’t break down ever, but it never gets clean; it just collects dirt and dust and stuff,” he says. “It’s always going to contain whatever’s fallen into it.”

While carpet is the softest flooring material considered here, it is also requires relatively frequent replacement (about every 11 years). Just 4 percent of carpet is recycled, a figure the CRI says will increase to 20 to 25 percent by 2012.


Paul Kretkowski wrote this article, with contributions from consultants Marian Keeler and Kirsten Ritchie, and architect Andrew Mangan for GreenHomeGuide.